L'OFFICIEL DE LA MODE n°187 de 1937 / Page 88 / 89

L'officiel de la couture» Paris the trend in dressmaking this season, the line is as simple as possible, but is charming, and logic is triumphant in ail the collections.

The silhouette for the day may be described in few words : normal or very slightly broadened shoulders ; waists well in their place, rather short skirts leaving ail the required ease for walking thanks to the more or iess libéral fulness according to the case.

For the evening, two lines share favours with woman : straight line, close-fitting, rather strictor, extremely wide, féminine and very graceful skirts.

On thèse fundamental bases, model designers hâve been clever enough to give play to their usual skill for presenting juvénile parisian créations, infinitely tempting to put it shortly.

Let us first of ail talk of the models for the beach which hâve (already) corne to whisper to us of sunshine, warmth, the open air ; we hâve seen some amusingly fancy shorts, short and wide jupe-culottes, bnght coloured paréos, almost masculine pyjamas, but also some charming little sun-bathing dresses, ail this in light colours and luminous colours generating the greatest of optimism : cottons of every description, silk and linen twills, shantungs, exotic twills, supravelna, albène twills, flannels.

Sports adepts are perplexed in chosing between knickers, jupe- culottes, or straight, slit skirts or skirts widened by pleats, worn together with comfortable vestes, with large yoke, small revers and patch pockets.

Recherché tailor-mades for every hour of the day are enjoying a triumphal success.

They are always extremely simple with very short jackets shaped at the waist, or slightly blousing beneath a belt.

Often collarless, fastened high, it is permissible to confuse them a little with the two-pieces which, thèse also, promise this summer to hold a leading place in our wardrobe.

Light, easy to wear outdoors because of their quiet stylishness, doubtless the two-pieces will share honours with the tailor-mades.

On the dresses, a little ' flou ' is optional ; balloon sleeves let in with pleats or tucks broaden the shoulders without stiffness.

Gathered or draped corsages emphasize the bust but not unduly ; skirts hâve a pretty, cloche movement, becoming to the highest degree, and favourable to movements.

Some flat basques or with godets, tunic effects, boléros, giving very pleasing results according to the circumstances.

Coats generally form part of an ensemble : straight or loose coat with broad revers for weanng over the tailor-made for travelling ; stylish redingotes to accompany the afternoon frock ; many of thèse garments hâve short and wide sleeves, and are in a matenal or colour contrasting with the remamder of the outfit.

For the stylish afternoon events, the evening if needs be, some maisons hâve launched ankle-height dresses, wide of skirt, slightly décolleté, which are quite novel.

The full evening gowns are magnificent and very many couturiers hâve let themselves be influenced by the coronation festivities by giving their models ail the sumptuosity to be desired, both in shapes and in matenals.

The close-fitting line is very pretty, indeed, but iess féminine, iess graceful than the line liberally flared at the hem which lends incom- parable charm to the gait.

The trimming mostly used, need it be said, is the flower.

How many enormous bouquets set on the shoulder, the waist, in front or at the back, hâve we seen ; garlands emphasizing a décolleté, composing a belt ; flowers stitched on sleeves, on the train, to the hem of a skirt ; for the afternoon their use is almost as fréquent, although more discreet.

This season it seems that there exists a strong and mystenous attraction towards ail that which is gay, luminous and beautiful, and it is quite natural that we feel very attracted towards flowers which very accurately summanze thèse essential qualities.

There is another trimming which couturiers hâve been clever enough to use tastefully : lace braiding.

We hâve returned to the galloon and soutache embroidery, ribbons, pompons, tassels, fnnges, lacings and to the girdle belts, and its success is such that it is permissible to think that we shall not discard its overy soon.

Still more embroidery, with beads, brilliants, spangles, silk, wool, straw, and what else?.

Ail actual stylishness is formed of a whole ensemble of détails whose charming subtleness only belongs to paris, and which we again find with the lingerie tnmmings, feathers, precious jewels or curious trinkets which give such value, such personality to each model.

Let us speak a little about matenals for marvelling of the extrême importance that is accorded them this season, a well justified importance, indeed, because of the efforts expended by the makers.

Whether woollen or silk, rayon or cotton, it is bewildenng to fix one's admiration before the surpnsing techniques and the results attained.

In the woollens : plains, figureds, printeds of ail weights ; enor- mous amount of neutral and bnght plaids ; squareds, stnpeds and checks.

Jerseys hâve reached remarkable perfection and boast of the characterisnc appearance of the prettiest woollens whilst conserving the inappréciable qualities which are their own.

Printed matenals dominate, on the most various of grounds, among which the rayon, albène, rhodia grounds attract attention ; we will mention the exotic supravelna twills, so novel and of perfect fall, the shantungs, rayon crêpes ; the pretty albène and rayon réversibles, the twills, the albène jerseys ; in rhodia, some quite remarkable satins and ottomans.

In natural silk, alongside chine, we find chiffons, charming silks with a relief, of an entirely new style.

In the field of the colours, multichrome processes hâve truly revolutionized couture, and there is not a single collection which has not shown noticeable models in thèse neat, glaring and nevertheless supremely harmo- nious pnnts.

Lace is used in profusion : cotton, linen, wool, silk, re-embroidered with albène, lace make up into charming coats, outdoor frocks or evening gowns, jackets, tnmmings.

The plain tulles, still in great favour, hâve had to share their success with the printed tulles, in matt rayon controlled by natcha, which since their appa- rition hâve enjoyed a very understandable vogue.

We will further mention the particularly supple and fine summer lamés, tulles in crin de rayonne, fringe materials as mobile as water, ail the créations, in fact, allowing our paris to conserve its title of the capital of luxury and elégance.

Claude saint-cyr dour l'inauguration de la maison claude saint-cyr et la présentation * de sa première collection, une réunion plus mondaine que commer- ciale a lieu sous forme d'un tardif cocktail, le vendredi 5 février.

Beaucoup de parisiennes et de femmes élégantes assistaient à cette pré- sentation et s'étaient donné rendez-vous tant pour prendre contact avec ces nouveaux salons décorés avec goût par j.

Pascaud, que pour s'accli- mater avec les futures lignes estivales.

Calottes basses, effets très longs dans la nuque accentués par des voilettes drapées en auréoles tombant sur les épaules ou des bouquets de fleurs débordant la passe pour s'aper- cevoir de face.

L,es toques découpées de chaque côté, les boléros soulevés sur les oreilles laissent juste la place des cheveux qui sont tous rejetés en hauteur dans les coiffures actuelles.

Deux tons lavande et puce s'allient dans un turban du soir et se re- trouvent en garniture de plumes ou de rubans sur des ors, des mastics ou des noirs.

Dara la inauguracion de la casa claude saint-cyr y la presentacion * de su primera coleccion, una reunion mas mundana que comercial a sido celebrada bajo la forma de un cocktail un poco tarde, el viernes 5 de pebrero.

Muchas parisienses y senoras élégantes asistioron a esta presentacion y se dioren cita tanto para tomar contacto con estos nuevos salones adornados con un gusto esquisito por j.

Pascaud, como para aclimatarse a las lineas futuras estivales.

Cabezas bajas, efectos muy i7or the inauguration of maison claude saint-cyr and the présentation ' of its first collection, a gathering more mundane than commercial has been held, in the form of a tardy cocktail party, on friday, 5th.

A large number of parisiennes and stylishladies were présent at this show, and were met together not only for being accustomed to the new showrooms decorated with taste by j.

Pascaud but also for becoming acclimatized to the future summer lines.

Low crowns, very long effects at the nape accentuated by veils draped in auréoles falling ou to the shoulders, or bouquets of flowers protruding from the brim so as to be seen from the front.

Toques eut away both sides, boléros raised on the ears leaving just room for the hair which is always given height in actual hairdressing.

Two colours of lavender and puce are allied in a turban for the evening and are again found in feather or ribbon trimmings on gold, putty or black.

Largos en la nuca acentuados con velillos drapés en auréolas cayendo sobre los hombros o ramilletes de flores colocados en la cinta por delante.

Ivas tocas recortadas en cada lado, las alas levantadas en los lados sobre la oreja dejan el sitio a los cabellos los cuales se llevan hechados hacia arriba en los peinados de la moda actual.

Dos colores, espliego y marron dorado se ve un turbante de noche y se ven en adornos de plumas o cintas, oro, masilla o negros.

'oki' panama de gaizenband l'officiel de la couture» Paris lucien lelong.

Satin vénitien, de vermont et cle.

' les médailles ' afternoon frock, very stylish in vénitien satin, pattern 798 from vermont el cie.

Robe d'après-midi très habillée en salin vénitien, patron 798 de vermont et c'«.

Vestido de tarde muy lujoao en raso vénitien, patron 798 de vermont et cle.

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